Roasting leeks in the oven mellows their oniony flavor and brings out the vegetables’ natural sweetness. As they cook the outer leaves blacken and turn brittle while the inside layers soften, becoming tender but retaining just the right amount of vegetable crunch.
In France, leeks have been called “poor man’s asparagus”, and are available year round unlike the fat white asparagus preferred by the French, which have a short growing season, arrive in the market tied up in bundles with ribbons and bows and are indeed, very expensive! When shopping for leeks, look for those which have bright, crisp green tops, and white firm stalks without splitting or dryness. Medium size leeks will be sweeter, less stringy and better for eating whole than large, overblown ones which are best chopped up and thrown in the stockpot.
Leeks are grown in sandy soil that can get caught up in their many layers. To clean them for roasting, cut off the tough, dark green leaves, then split them down one side, starting at the top and running your knife half way down the length of the stalk (you want to open them up enough to wash out the grit but still keep them intact). If you like the whiskery look of the root end, you need do nothing more than just give their earthy beards a trim, otherwise cut off the bottom but leave enough of the base to keep the leek from falling apart. After that, they just need a wash under running water or to be swished around in a bowl of water to remove any dirt trapped between the leaves.
In this recipe the mild, slightly sweet leeks are sprinkled with hard cooked eggs and crispy, buttery croutons and livened up with a bold, red wine vinaigrette–In classic French cuisine the chopped egg garnish is known as « oeuf mimosa » because of its resemblance to a flowering yellow plant by the same name. The leeks would be equally good served with an anchovy-mustard dressing or just a drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice.
The roasted leeks can be served straight away or prepared in advanced and kept in the refrigerator, but take them out at least an hour before serving. They can be served cool, but not cold.
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